Sea kayaking - Castle island west Cork 

We prepared our three touring kayaks for an overnight sea kayaking and camping trip. The kayaks have enough storage space for a tent, sleeping bags, a disposable barbecue, food and enough warm clothes to get us through the night. It was only my second time kayaking and first time kayaking on the open ocean. Luckily the conditions were perfect, the sea was flat, the sun shining and there was little wind. ‘It doesn’t get much better than this,’ says my guide.

From the shore we could see the island, roughly 1 km from Schull harbour. There wasn’t another person in sight as we kayaked the short distance from Schull harbour to the island’s pier situated just below the castle ruins. The island was ours for the night, well … us and about 30 sheep. We unpacked the kayaks and setup camp.

By eleven pm the setting sun had cast a beautiful red glow across the sky. We jumped into the kayaks and headed towards the horizon. We planned to make it around the island before it got too dark. At the western tip of the island the lights of Schull village illuminated the inlet on our right, and the rosy glow on the Atlantic Ocean filled our view to the left. As we made our way around the island a shoal of mackerel created a boiling effect in the water around us and the ruins of a nearby cottage formed a perfect silhouette against the backdrop of the red sky.

When we returned to the pier we pulled the kayaks in for the night and made our way back to the tent. The barbecue was prepared on an abandoned road sandwiched between two old stone walls which provided shelter from the night breezes. The road overrun with grass and weeds, provided a perfect dining area and when lit with candles created a perfect backdrop for our evening meal. The Bandon sausages picked up on our journey from Cork are devoured in no time. Our guide pointed out the near full moon on the horizon, a perfect end to a perfect day.

I awoke early the next morning, and decided to explore the island. I headed towards a couple of ruins on the top of the hill. A narrow road, just wide enough to fit a horse and cart, led me to the site of two ruins at the highest point of the island. From here I had a clear view of the entire island across to the neighbouring islands (Horse island and Long island). It was a crystal clear morning. The only sound was the munching of grass from a nearby sheep.

The rest of the morning was spent practicing rescue techniques in the kayak, I probably should have done this lesson first, but I guess it’s better late than never. We packed up our things and made sure to leave no trace of our night on the island. The ten minutes it took to reach the mainland went too quickly. This trip will be hard to beat.
 

Getting there: Castle island is located about 1 km off the coast of Schull village in southwest Cork. Schull is 107 km from Cork city. Take the N71 road west out of Cork city and follow the road signs for Bandon, then Clonakilty and Skibbereen through to Ballydehob and into Schull. If you have time, the coastal road from Cork city to Schull is well worth your while. Bus Éireann runs a service from Cork city to Schull. Check www.buseireann.ie for the latest timetable (route 237).

The area: The island is small and relatively flat with a handful of cottage ruins spread throughout. Narrow overgrown roads (boreens) connect the cottage ruins. Sheep graze on the island, so camping and walking is easy. If you are planning a longer stay, Castle island can act as a good base for exploring the neighbouring Horse island and Long island.

Provider: Both Schull Watersport Centre (www.schullwatersports.com, +353 (0)28 28554) and Atlantic Sea Kayaking (www.atlanticseakayaking.com, +353 (0)28 21058 ), based in Skibbereen, offer a range of different kayak tours, from short half-day trips to longer island-exploring trips throughout west Cork.

Kayaking: The easiest landing point on the island is a beach at the pier, located under the castle on the land-facing side of the island. There is no fresh water on the island, so if you are planning on camping you need to bring all supplies with you. The journey from Schull to Castle island is relatively short, but inexperienced kayakers should be careful when crossing the open ocean, especially in bad weather conditions.
For more information about kayaking in Ireland and a comprehensive list of canoe/kayak clubs; contact the Irish Canoe Union at (+353 (0)1 625 1105) or check out their website www.canoe.ie.

Accommodation: If possible you should try and spend at least one night in a tent on the island; alternatively, Schull has numerous bed and breakfast options. For a complete accommodation list pick up the free visitors’ guide to Schull, available from village businesses, or check out www.corkkerry.ie or www.schull.ie/stay.htm. Schull is quite popular during the summer months so it may be wise to book ahead.

Other attractions: Ireland’s only planetarium is located in Schull, and is open during the summer months. Mizen head signal station, located 34 km from Schull, is worth visiting, as it offers great views along the south and west coasts. Whale watching boats leave from nearby Union Hall (see chapter: Whale Watching – Union Hall, West Cork).

Best time to go/season: Anytime between May and August.

Links:www.corkkerry.ie, www.oileain.org/oileain5.htm, www.schull.ie/stay.htm, www.atlanticseakayaking.com